How to use an ice axe? – Houston Axe Mag

An ice axe is one of the most essential tools for mountaineering and alpine travel. From providing stability on snow-covered slopes to serving as a literal lifesaver during a fall, knowing how to properly use an ice axe is a fundamental skill for anyone venturing into alpine terrain. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about ice axes, from understanding their basic components to mastering critical techniques like self-arrest.

Understanding Your Ice Axe

Before learning how to use an ice axe effectively, it’s important to understand its different parts and how they function together.

Anatomy of an Ice Axe

An ice axe consists of several key components:

Component	Description	Function
Head	The metal top section of the axe	Houses the pick and adze
Pick	The sharp, pointed end	Used for self-arrest and anchoring in snow/ice
Adze	The broad, hoe-like feature opposite the pick	Used for cutting steps or platforms in snow
Shaft	The long handle of the axe	Provides leverage and can be used for support
Spike	The sharp point at the bottom of the shaft	Provides traction when using the axe as a walking aid
Carabiner Hole	Opening in the head	Attachment point for leashes or carabiners

Types of Ice Axes

Different mountaineering situations call for different types of ice axes:

Type	Characteristics	Best Use
General Mountaineering Axe	Straight shaft, 50-70cm length	Alpine climbing, glacier travel, moderate slopes
Technical Ice Axe	Curved shaft, specialized pick design	Steeper ice and snow, more technical climbing
Hybrid/Modular Axe	Combination of features, often with interchangeable parts	Versatile use across different terrain

According to REI, “Straight shafts are ideal for general mountaineering because they let you use the axe as a supportive cane on low-angle terrain and they plunge cleanly into the snow when you need to self-belay or use the axe as an anchor” REI.

Selecting the Right Ice Axe

Choosing the correct ice axe for your needs is crucial for both safety and efficiency in the mountains.

Length Considerations

The traditional method to determine proper ice axe length is:

Hold the axe at your side with your arm relaxed
The spike should reach about your ankle or mid-calf

However, modern mountaineering often favors shorter axes (45-60cm) even for taller individuals, as they’re more versatile on steeper terrain. As noted by The Great Outdoors magazine, “For more technical routes, shorter may be better” TGO Magazine.

Material Selection

The material of your ice axe affects both weight and durability:

Material	Weight	Durability	Best For
Steel Head/Aluminum Shaft	Medium	High	General mountaineering, versatile use
All Aluminum	Light	Low	Ski mountaineering, lightweight trips, non-technical terrain
Titanium Components	Medium-Light	Very High	Technical alpine climbing, high durability needs
Carbon Fiber Shaft	Very Light	Medium	Fast-and-light alpine missions, technical climbing

Basic Ice Axe Techniques

Once you have the right ice axe, learning proper techniques is essential for safe mountain travel.

Carrying Positions

There are several ways to carry your ice axe, each appropriate for different situations:

Position	Description	When to Use
Self-Arrest Grip	Pick pointing backward, hand wrapped around head with thumb under adze	Standard position when traveling on slopes
Cane Position	Holding axe by head with pick forward, using spike for support	Low-angle terrain, general walking
Self-Belay Grip	Hand on shaft near head, pick pointing forward into snow	Ascending steeper slopes
Dagger Position	Gripping shaft with pick pointing downward	Ascending steep snow
Stowed on Pack	Secured to outside of backpack	When axe is not needed (e.g., on flat terrain)

VDiff Climbing explains the proper self-arrest grip: “Hold the axe in your hand with your thumb under the adze and the pick pointing back as shown. This means you are always ready for an ice axe arrest if you slip” VDiff Climbing.

Walking on Snow with an Ice Axe

One of the primary uses of an ice axe is to provide stability while walking on snow. Here’s how to do it properly:

Hold the axe in your uphill hand in the self-arrest grip (pick facing backward)
Use the spike end of the shaft to plant into the snow, creating a third point of contact
Take deliberate steps, moving the axe forward after each step
Keep your weight centered over your feet and the axe for maximum stability

For steeper terrain, you might switch to:

Self-belay position (pick forward)
Plant the pick into the snow above you with each step
Use the axe to help pull yourself up the slope

Ascending Techniques

When climbing steeper snow, different axe positions become useful:

Cane Position

Good for moderate slopes (up to 30°)
Provides balance and a third point of contact
Less secure than other positions

Self-Belay Position

Effective on steeper slopes (30-45°)
Pick faces into the slope
Plant the pick with each step for security

Dagger Position

Used on steeper terrain (40-60°)
Hold axe by the shaft with pick pointing downward
Drive pick into snow above you
Can use one hand on the shaft or two in very steep sections

Dual Tool Technique

For the steepest snow and ice (60°+)
Uses two axes or an axe and an ice tool
Requires more technical skill and equipment

Self-Arrest: The Critical Safety Skill

Self-arrest is the technique used to stop yourself from sliding down a snow slope after a fall. It’s one of the most important skills for any mountaineer to master.

The Self-Arrest Position

The basic self-arrest position requires:

Axe held diagonally across your chest
Pick facing away from your body, into the snow
One hand on the axe head (uphill hand ideally)
Other hand grasping the shaft near the spike
Body and legs positioned to apply maximum pressure on the pick

Self-Arrest from Different Falling Positions

You may find yourself sliding in various positions, requiring different responses:

Starting Position	Technique
On stomach, head uphill	Roll to face downhill, then perform standard self-arrest
On stomach, head downhill	Immediately drive pick into snow, maintain position and apply pressure
On back, head uphill	Roll onto stomach, face downhill, then perform standard self-arrest
On back, head downhill	Roll onto stomach, keep legs raised, drive pick into snow

Mountain Homies explains: “The best position to self-arrest is on your stomach with your feet facing downhill. If you fall in any other position, roll or turn to this position as quickly as you can” Mountain Homies.

Common Self-Arrest Mistakes

Avoid these common errors when practicing self-arrest:

Hesitation: Delays in deploying the axe lead to increased speed and momentum
Improper grip: Failing to maintain a firm grip on both the head and shaft
Poor body position: Not getting weight over the pick to drive it into the snow
Face position: Keeping your face too close to the adze (risk of injury)
Crampon issues: When wearing crampons, failing to keep points up and away from snow (can cause flipping)

Advanced Ice Axe Techniques

As you become more comfortable with basic techniques, more advanced skills become necessary for technical terrain.

Step Cutting

Before the widespread use of crampons, step cutting was the primary method of ascending steep snow. It remains a valuable skill:

Hold the axe by the shaft near the head
Use the adze to chop horizontal platforms for your feet
Start with the downhill foot position, then create the uphill step
Make sure each step is deep enough and flat enough to provide secure footing

Snow Anchors with an Ice Axe

Your ice axe can be used as an anchor for belaying or rescues:

Vertical Axe Placement

Drive the axe into firm snow at about a 10-15° angle away from the direction of load
Bury the shaft completely if possible
Attach sling or rope to the head using a clove hitch or girth hitch

Horizontal (T-Slot) Anchor

Dig a T-shaped trench in the snow
Place the axe horizontally in the top of the T
Run a sling or cord down the vertical part of the T
Pack snow firmly around the axe

Ice Axe Belay

Sit in a secure position with good footing
Drive the axe shaft deep into the snow at an angle away from the expected load
Hold the head of the axe with both hands, ready to brace against your hip/shoulder
Keep the rope running over the shaft between the head and the snow

Glacier Travel Techniques

On glaciers, your ice axe serves multiple crucial functions:

Probing: Testing snow for hidden crevasses
Self-rescue: Providing a means to stop a fall into a crevasse
Anchor building: Creating secure points for crevasse rescue systems
Travel aid: Assisting with balance on uneven glacial terrain

Safety Considerations

Practice Before You Need It

The most important aspect of using an ice axe is practice. As Short Guys Beta Works emphasizes: “That’s where the muscle memory and the goofy looking-, comical slip- type of self-arrests come into play. They are the only type that work. Forget the movie versions” Short Guys Beta Works.

Find a safe slope with:

Consistent, moderate angle (20-30°)
Soft enough snow to practice without injury
Good runout (no cliffs, rocks, or trees in the fall line)
Proper safety equipment (helmet recommended)

Maintenance and Care

To keep your ice axe in optimal condition:

After each use: Clean off snow and ice, dry completely
Seasonal check: Inspect for damage, particularly to the head and pick
Storage: Keep in a dry place, light oil on metal components if storing long-term
Pick maintenance: Sharpen dull picks with a file (maintain factory angles)
Shaft inspection: Check for bends, cracks, or deformation, especially after heavy use

Using an Ice Axe with Other Equipment

Ice Axe and Crampons

When using both crampons and an ice axe:

Be aware of catching crampon points in your clothing or on the axe shaft
In self-arrest situations, keep crampon points up and away from the snow
Practice transitioning between different terrain requiring different techniques

Rope Systems

Using an ice axe alongside rope systems:

Understand how to build various snow anchors using your axe
Practice transitioning between unroped travel and roped travel
Learn specific techniques for team arrests when roped together

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I choose the right length ice axe?

The traditional rule is that when standing upright with your arms at your sides, the spike of the axe should reach your ankle. However, modern mountaineering often favors shorter axes (45-60cm) even for taller individuals because they’re more versatile on steeper terrain. Consider your primary use case – longer axes provide better balance on gentle terrain, while shorter axes are better for steeper, more technical climbing.

What’s the difference between a mountaineering ice axe and an ice climbing tool?

Mountaineering ice axes typically have straight or slightly curved shafts designed for general alpine use, including walking, self-arrest, and basic climbing. Ice climbing tools feature more aggressive curved shafts, specialized picks optimized for vertical ice, and ergonomic handles. Mountaineering axes are versatile for various terrain, while ice tools excel in steep technical climbing but sacrifice utility on moderate terrain.

How do I self-arrest if I fall while wearing crampons?

When self-arresting with crampons, it’s crucial to keep your feet raised to prevent the crampon points from catching in the snow, which could cause you to tumble. Roll onto your stomach, drive the pick into the snow, and lift your legs slightly so only the pick engages with the snow surface. Practice this technique specifically, as it differs from standard self-arrest.

Can I use an ice axe for technical ice climbing?

While a standard mountaineering ice axe can handle moderate snow and alpine ice, true technical ice climbing (like frozen waterfalls) requires specialized ice tools. These tools have more aggressive picks, curved shafts, and ergonomic handles designed specifically for vertical ice. For occasional steep sections, a hybrid axe might work, but dedicated ice climbers will want purpose-built tools.

How often should I practice self-arrest techniques?

Self-arrest should be practiced at the beginning of each winter season, and anytime you’re introducing new equipment (like a different axe or new crampons). The muscle memory for proper self-arrest degrades over time, so regular practice is essential. Many mountaineers also practice self-arrest from different positions (e.g., sliding head-first, on back) to prepare for various fall scenarios.

Conclusion

Mastering the use of an ice axe is a fundamental skill for safe travel in alpine environments. From providing stability on snow slopes to serving as a vital self-rescue tool, the ice axe is truly an extension of the mountaineer. Through proper selection, technique practice, and regular use, you’ll develop the confidence to tackle increasingly challenging terrain while maintaining a high margin of safety.

Remember that reading about these techniques is just the first step. Hands-on practice under proper supervision is essential before venturing into serious mountain terrain. Consider taking a mountaineering course from a reputable guide service to develop these skills in a controlled environment with expert feedback.

With practice and experience, using an ice axe will become second nature, allowing you to focus on the joy and challenge of mountain travel while maintaining the safety skills necessary for when conditions become challenging.

Additional Resources

For further learning on ice axe techniques, consider these valuable resources:

Always seek proper training from qualified instructors before venturing into technical terrain where these skills might be required for your safety.