Making your own axe handle is a rewarding woodworking project that connects you to traditional craftsmanship while creating a functional tool that can last for years. Whether you’re restoring an old axe head or creating a custom handle for a specific purpose, this comprehensive guide will walk you through the entire process from selecting the right wood to finishing your custom handle.
Choosing the Right Wood for Your Axe Handle
Selecting the appropriate wood is perhaps the most critical decision in creating a durable and functional axe handle. Not all woods are created equal when it comes to withstanding the forces an axe handle must endure.
Best Woods for Axe Handles
| Wood Type | Characteristics | Best Used For | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hickory | Strongest option, excellent combination of strength and flexibility | All axe types, especially full-sized axes | Common in North America, standard for commercial handles |
| Ash | Strong but about 15% lighter than hickory, feels more “whippy” | General purpose axes, good alternative to hickory | Widely available in most regions |
| White Oak | Similar strength to ash but firmer, coarse grain provides natural grip | General purpose axes | Common in North America and Europe |
| Maple | Moderately strong hardwood | Better for hatchets and smaller handles | Readily available |
| Elm, Beech, Birch | Traditional European choices, not as strong as hickory | Smaller axes and hatchets | Common in Europe |
Woods to Avoid:
- Softwoods like pine or cedar (not strong enough)
- Soft hardwoods like poplar (too weak for handles, though suitable for wedges)
- Any wood with significant knots or irregular grain patterns
Understanding Wood Grain
The grain orientation in your axe handle dramatically affects its strength and durability. For optimal performance:
- Straight Grain: The grain should run parallel with the direction of the handle
- Minimal Runout: Ensure the grain runs through the entire handle without terminating mid-handle
- Avoid Knots: Knots disrupt grain flow and create weak points that can lead to failure
As Axe & Tool explains, “The grain should be fairly straight, running parallel with the direction of the axe. It can be at an angle, but shouldn’t be more than 45°. This will reduce the chance of the handle breaking along the grain as it flexes in use.”
Sapwood vs. Heartwood
Contrary to some traditional beliefs, both sapwood (lighter outer wood) and heartwood (darker inner wood) perform equally well for axe handles. According to USDA studies in 1936 and 1966, there is no meaningful difference in strength between the two.
Wood Moisture Content
Always use properly seasoned wood with approximately 10-12% moisture content. Green (freshly cut) wood will shrink and potentially crack as it dries, causing your axe head to loosen over time. As Robin Wood notes, properly dried wood will “ring rather than thud” when tapped and feel “nice and springy.”
Tools You’ll Need
While it’s possible to make an axe handle with minimal tools, having the right equipment will make the process much easier and more enjoyable.
Essential Tools:
- Saw (bandsaw or handsaw)
- Knife (a good quality fixed blade)
- Rasps (a coarse saw rasp and finer 4-in-1 rasp are ideal)
- Sandpaper (various grits from 60 to 220)
- Pencil and measuring tools
- Mallet or dead-blow hammer (for fitting the head)
Optional but Helpful Tools:
- Drawknife (traditional tool for shaping handles)
- Spokeshave (for smoothing curved surfaces)
- Drill (for lanyard holes)
- Cabinet scraper or card scraper (reduces sanding time)
Preparing Your Wood
Before you begin shaping your handle, you need to prepare your stock wood appropriately.
If Starting from a Log:
- Split the log into quarters or eighths (depending on size) using an axe and wedges
- Select the section with the straightest grain and fewest knots
- Roughly shape the split wood into a rectangular blank using an axe
- Allow the wood to dry completely if it’s still green (can take weeks to months)
If Using Dimensional Lumber:
- Select a board with straight grain that’s wide and thick enough to accommodate your handle design
- Ensure the board has no major knots or defects
- Cut the board to the appropriate length for your handle (typically 16-36″ depending on axe type)
Designing Your Axe Handle
The design of your handle should be appropriate for the axe head and the intended use of the tool.
Common Handle Types:
| Handle Type | Characteristics | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Straight | Traditional design, simple to make | Splitting mauls, some double-bit axes |
| Curved | Standard for most modern axes | Single-bit felling and general-purpose axes |
| Fawn’s Foot | Has a flared end (swell knob) | Traditional American design, provides grip security |
| Octagonal | Eight-sided grip section | Traditional European design, provides positive grip |
Determining the Right Length:
- Felling Axes: 28-36″ (Northeast US traditionally used ~32″ handles)
- Splitting Mauls: 30-36″
- General Purpose Axes: 24-32″
- Boy’s Axes: 24-28″
- Camp Axes: 18-24″
- Hatchets: 12-18″
Sizing for the Axe Eye:
Carefully measure the eye (hole) of your axe head. The top of your handle should be sized to fit snugly through this opening, with the shoulders wide enough to prevent the head from sliding down.
Creating Your Axe Handle
Now that you’ve selected and prepared your wood, it’s time to shape your axe handle.
Step 1: Draw the Handle Pattern
- If you have an existing handle to use as a template, trace its outline onto your wood blank
- If designing from scratch, draw the desired shape, ensuring proper proportions
- Mark the center line along the entire length to help maintain symmetry
- Leave the handle slightly oversized compared to your final dimensions
As Wilker Do’s advises, “Position the template so that the grain would be mostly vertical throughout the entire length of the handle. Once happy with the orientation, trace the handle on all four sides.”
Step 2: Cut Out the Basic Shape
- Use a bandsaw or handsaw to cut along your traced lines
- For handsaw work, consider making relief cuts in curved areas to reduce stress on the blade
- Cut just outside your lines to allow for final shaping
- Keep the bottom of the handle flat for now (this will be used for hammering during fitting)
Step 3: Shape the Eye
According to Anne of All Trades, “The most important thing here is that the sharp blade of the axe ends up perfectly square, centered, and lined up with the long part of the handle.”
- Draw the outline of the axe eye on the top of the handle
- Mark center lines to ensure proper alignment
- Use a drawknife, rasp, or knife to gradually shape the top of the handle to fit the axe eye
- Test fit frequently, noting where the wood is being compressed
- Make gradual adjustments until the head fits snugly
- The end of the handle should protrude 1/8″ to 1/4″ through the top of the axe head
Step 4: Cut the Kerf
The kerf is the slot at the top of the handle where the wedge will be driven to secure the axe head.
- Mark a line down the center of the top of the handle, aligned with the direction of the axe head
- Use a saw to cut a slot approximately 2/3 the depth of the axe eye
- The slot should be wide enough to accept your wooden wedge
Step 5: Shape the Handle
Now shape the handle to its final dimensions and ergonomic profile.
- Use rasps to remove material and create the desired profile
- Maintain a consistent width (approximately 19-21mm or 0.75-0.825″) along the shaft
- Shape any palm swells or grip features
- Keep the shoulder wide enough to support the axe head
- Round or chamfer edges for comfort and to prevent splitting
Step 6: Drill a Lanyard Hole (Optional)
If desired, drill a hole near the bottom of the handle for a lanyard or hanging cord.
- Mark the location for the hole (typically 1-2″ from the bottom)
- Drill with a 3/8″ bit
- Chamfer (bevel) the edges of the hole to prevent splitting and cord wear
Step 7: Sand the Handle
- Start with coarse sandpaper (60 grit) to remove rasp marks
- Progress to medium (100 grit) to smooth the surface
- Finish with fine sandpaper (220 grit) for a polished feel
- Some woodworkers leave the grip area slightly rougher for better traction
Hanging the Axe Head
The process of attaching the axe head to the handle is called “hanging” and requires careful attention to detail.
Step 1: Final Fitting
- Insert the handle into the axe eye, ensuring it fits snugly
- Check that the axe head is aligned properly with the handle
- The blade should be perfectly square to the handle and centered
- Use a dead-blow hammer or mallet to seat the head firmly
Step 2: Make and Insert the Wedge
- Cut a wooden wedge from a hardwood (traditionally a softer wood than the handle, like poplar)
- The wedge should be slightly longer than the depth of the axe eye
- Apply wood glue to the wedge (optional but recommended)
- Drive the wedge firmly into the kerf until it won’t go any further
- Trim any excess wedge protruding from the top
As Art of Manliness describes, “Drive the wedge down into the slot until it’s very tight. If you want to carve two or three small wedges that’s fine too.”
Step 3: Add Metal Wedges (Optional)
For extra security, some axe makers add small metal wedges perpendicular to the wooden wedge.
- Position 1-2 small metal wedges across the wooden wedge
- Drive them in firmly with a hammer
- These help spread the wood further and lock the handle in place
Finishing Your Axe Handle
A proper finish protects your handle and enhances its appearance and feel.
Step 1: Final Shaping
- Now that the head is hung, you can round off the bottom of the handle if desired
- Make any final adjustments to the grip or palm swell
Step 2: Oil the Handle
Linseed oil is the traditional choice for axe handles, providing protection while allowing the wood to breathe.
- Apply boiled linseed oil liberally to the entire handle
- Pay special attention to the end grain, which absorbs more oil
- Wipe off any excess after 15-30 minutes
- For best results, follow the traditional schedule: “Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year”
Anne of All Trades shares an interesting tip: “The man who taught me to forge axes likes to soak his axe handles in oil before he hangs the head… For what it’s worth, three years later, this axe head is still as tight as the day I hung it.”
Maintaining Your Axe Handle
With proper care, a handmade axe handle can last for decades.
- Store your axe in a dry location away from extreme temperatures
- Apply oil occasionally, especially if the wood begins to look dry
- Check the tightness of the head regularly
- Sand out any nicks or damage promptly to prevent water infiltration
- Never leave your axe exposed to prolonged moisture
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even experienced woodworkers encounter challenges when making axe handles. Here are solutions to common problems:
Loose Axe Head
- Cause: Wood shrinkage, improper fitting, or wedge failure
- Solution: First try soaking the head in water to swell the wood. If that fails, remove the head and start with a new handle.
Split Handle
- Cause: Wood drying out, grain runout, or excessive force
- Solution: Small splits can sometimes be glued and wrapped with cord. Significant splits require a new handle.
Improper Alignment
- Cause: Inattention during fitting process
- Solution: If detected early, the handle can be adjusted. Once the wedge is driven, a new handle is usually required.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to make an axe handle?
For beginners, expect to spend 4-8 hours on your first handle. With experience, you might complete one in 2-4 hours. This doesn’t include wood drying time if starting from green wood.
Can I use power tools to make an axe handle?
Yes, power tools like bandsaws, belt sanders, and power drills can speed up the process. However, fine control for fitting the eye is often better achieved with hand tools.
How do I know if my handle is strong enough?
A properly made handle from appropriate wood should be strong enough for normal use. Test by flexing it slightly by hand – it should feel firm but with a small amount of give. If it feels brittle or overly flexible, reconsider your wood choice.
How do I remove an old handle from an axe head?
Saw off the handle below the head, then drill out or chisel away the remaining wood in the eye. Alternatively, burn out the old handle by inserting the head into a hot fire (but be aware this may affect the temper of the steel).
Do I need to replace the handle if the axe head becomes loose?
Not necessarily. Try soaking the head in water overnight or driving in additional small metal wedges. If these methods fail, then replacement is necessary.
Conclusion
Creating your own axe handle connects you to a tradition of craftsmanship that spans centuries. While it requires patience and attention to detail, the process is rewarding and results in a tool personalized to your preferences and needs. A well-made axe handle can last for decades with proper care, making it well worth the effort invested.
Whether you’re restoring a vintage axe head or customizing a modern tool, the skills learned in making an axe handle transfer to many other woodworking projects. Take your time, enjoy the process, and soon you’ll have a functional tool that reflects your craftsmanship and dedication.
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